you are all two wrong and you are both right. truth is, only way to know if it wil XLStart is with him giving the beans! However I agree with you both.
As I believe a battery is charged, first reached its voltage and while it reaches its current. Therefore when recharge you a battery an hour… it can display 12, 5V but have not all necessary amps.
I find it useful to have a voltmeter in the car. If the engine is enabled, it goes up to 14V, if the engine is disabled, it reads 12V. You can also monitor the consumption of electrical appliances such as brownouts.
Suddenly if the engine is on and down to the bottom, you can diagnose a problem with early generator or alternator belt snap.
I’m looking for a (although he did do much of effort in it) and exchange it for the clock.
EDIT: ah… and to me that little device is a rip off. Better to buy a cheapish for 10-20quid multimeter and which will be much more useful (my good market 15eu one lasts for more than 14 years). It is something that you are stuck with just to check the tension of a ciggie the lighter socket or power outlet.
Verification of the power
The next thing to check is that power actually achieved the fuse and the element that does not work. To do this, set the controls of the meter to measure volts DC. With most of the cars, the highest voltage that they should get is 15V, therefore if the digital counter requires lines set, choose the one that will be step be overloaded by a 15V signal. Now the counter is set up. At this point, the user can start actually checking the car for power. Replace the fuse, check both sides of the fuse holder. Should have the same voltage as the vehicle’s battery and the other must indicate zero. If this is the case, it can now be replaced, and the user can verify whether they have now tension on both sides.
By Jeremy P Stanfords
Audit of fuses
The first thing to check is the fuses. Use the car manual to find the location of the box of fuse and the specific fuse for the element that does not work. Remove the fuse. If anyone has an older car, they can probably see if she has blown. With some of the smaller plastic types used on European and Japanese cars they may have the value of the mode of continuity counter and check if the fuses still work with probes at each end of the fuse. If the fuse is blown, can try to replace. If it is still blowing once they can use the digital meter panel to check shorts ground to see if this is the problem. If there is no shorts, they can set the mode of the meter to measure current and see if the device attempts to draw more current than the fuse for which it has been classified.
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